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最新章节： 第521章 致良知精神控制 （ 2024-05-16 08:47:43）
更新时间： 2024-05-16 10:17:27
- 第1章 印尼6.3级地震
- 第2章 CUBA全明星
- 第3章 明道哥哥自杀计划
- 第4章 世界欠我一个初恋妻子的浪漫旅行3
- 第5章 炉石传说
- 第6章 韩酒店推宠物套房
- 第7章 遇见王沥川
- 第8章 X1解散
- 第9章 奥尼尔
- 第10章 奥特曼
- 第11章 old town road
- 第12章 吐槽大会4
- 第13章 修真聊天群
- 第14章 幸福三重奏2
- 第15章 狐妖小红娘
- 第16章 寻情记
- 第17章 炉石传说
- 第18章 斗罗大陆
- 第19章 陈情令
- 第20章 魏大勋
- 点击查看 中间隐藏的 24560 章节
- 第549章 摩拜无门槛免押金
- 第550章 母其弥雅
- 第551章 密室大逃脱
- 第552章 吉利
- 第553章 意甲
- 第554章 用尽我的一切奔向你
- 第555章 天道图书馆3
- 第556章 幸福三重奏
- 第557章 从前有座灵剑山
- 第558章 跨年晚会大型蹦迪
- 第559章 明星大侦探
- 第560章 蔡徐坤
- 第561章 从前有座灵剑山
- 第562章 韩酒店推宠物套房
- 第563章 五等分の気持ち
- 第564章 鲁迅微软数据中心沉海
- 第565章 特朗普豪赌引震动中国机长
- 第566章 鼠年多上一个月班
- 第567章 C罗上演2020第一帽
- 第568章 牧马人
日本论理中文字2021
萧志成16日下午已出发。<br /><br />去年旅行了半年，山河壮丽，决定今年再走走看看。<br /><br />方式：班车+定点徒步<;br /><br />内容：运河黄河、长城长征、草原雪山、古镇村寨，寻沐自然原朴。<br /><br />感觉本论坛氛围不错，借一角，记录行程的时间地点，以备忘，还有些随意随笔。<br /><br />按照去年的情况，照片可能要回家再贴了。（——后面到各地知道发图片并不难，一路随时发PP）。<br />;<br />现在婺源清华镇。<br /><br />今天凌晨到景德镇，早7：30和偶同车一婺源小伙乘车（19元）到婺源县城，再转乘5元中巴公交车近中午到清华镇。从景德镇有直接到清华镇的中巴公交车（也19元）。<;br /><br />清华镇主要景点是彩虹廊桥，不知是否是周末原因，游人不少。<br /><br />彩虹廊桥在清华镇旁的小河上，虽然在小河边常常看见居民洗物，但小河也太显自然了；<br /><br />彩虹廊桥下还有一类似凤凰跳岩的“跳石桥”，但现在只是供游人体验用了；<br />;<br />清华镇隔河的油菜花基本都开了，金黄色一块一块的，没连成大片，有新意但不壮观。<br /><br />;清华古镇就在彩虹廊桥旁，古镇似乎不引人注意。在古镇上、特别在隔河的油菜地上走，往往没有提示已进入彩虹廊桥景区，会有人上门买票，态度还不错。。。。。今天（19日）早乘中巴到思口镇（2元），徒步5公里到延村（考虑后面要徒步不少，现在活动活动身体）。思溪村离延村2公里，之间基本是油菜花地，走在其间感觉不错。<br /> 延村四周基本是油菜花地，基本连成了片，较大，比清华的好看。<br /> 今天是周末，油菜花旁停的旅游车上下来的JJMM们许多，在油菜花丛中还有一些摆弄着三脚架的摄影爱好者，背着小背包的XDJM也不少，但象我背着70升包、包上还叉着手杖的还没看见（幸好这次还没买帐篷），走在其间醒目许多：）<;br /> 思溪主要是看民居，我兴趣不太大。<;br /> 下午乘摩的到思口镇（3元），转中巴到紫阳县城（3元），再乘中巴到江湾（8元），打摩的到晓起（8元）住下。住宿情况和清华一样，20元/夜（带电视，卫生间公共有热水器）。<br /> 晓起和江湾一样，景区下午下班后没人收门票。刚才在路灯下进去走了走，也是民居。。。。。外面还有些古树，明天再看看。<br /> 晚饭是在老屋饭店吃的，是套大木楼，一楼现是餐馆，原来应是“礼耕堂”，正中是“礼耕堂”牌匾，匾下市一对联：<br /> 几百年人家无非积善，<;br /> 第一等好事只是读书。<;br /> <br /><!--QuoteBegin-依笑+2006年3月19号 , 0910 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(依笑 4; 2006年3月19号 , 0910 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteEBegin-->LZ好懒惰。。<br />[right][snapback]251947[/snapback][/right]<br /><;!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd--><br />;<br /><br />呵呵。是指贴PP么？会尽量。。。。。晓起河边的古树还行，如果小河穿过古镇就更好了。<br />20日上午乘到中村的中巴，到庆源路口下（7元），沿着石板路徒步2.5公里到庆源。<br />;21日同旅店有6人要到江岭、2人到紫阳县城，老板约了辆中巴班车到门口接我们（大概司机觉得到江岭人多，13元）。8点前我一人在江岭山顶下车，爬爬下下，寻找角度边走边拍，中午1点前走到山脚下江岭村路口，等中村开出的那辆班车，回紫阳，下午5点前到县城（11元）。<br /><br />庆源村内的梨花还没开，去早了几天，村后一大块坡上、溪旁油菜花地还不错，偶遇一福建摄影发烧友，学着他爬上坡地选角度拍油菜花，但婺源油菜花最值得看的应该是江岭，在那拍照的人真不少。<br />江岭的油菜花地是梯田似的，漫山遍野的、各种图案和线条的金黄色甚是养眼，山脚下有2、3个小村，一条小溪在徽式老房旁蜿蜒，站在山上往下看，较为壮观。<br /><br />;看婺源油菜花，江岭应必去。去年也想途中贴图，但不是网吧没有接口，就是怕病毒不让接数码伴侣，也可能没找着能贴图的网吧，途中没贴一张！回到家才贴。这次争取吧。去年贴了几百张，大家看看，照的不太好，联结地址：https//www12.tianya.cn/New/PublicForum/Con...le=65232&flag=1——不知去年怎么回事，今年此后发图片都比较顺利！出发：<br />;<br />海口火车站广场<br />到婺源看油菜花<br />;<br />清华镇油菜花<br />清华镇 彩虹桥的跳石桥<br />......<br />老人。。。<br />延村。。。<br />思溪。。。<;br />;庆源。。。（有点雾雨）<;br />;.......<br />......<br />;<br />江岭。。。<br />江岭小学全校师生（三个年级一个老师）<br /><br />鸟瞰江岭下村（应该是）<br />江岭。。。<br />。。。<br />现在诸暨，这网吧外接贴图没人管，一口气贴了些。<br />婺源有点雨有雾，有些图片有点朦。<;br />另外竖着照的没软件不会处理，没法贴。<br />有些图片部分没有显示，好象是我这里网速问。<br />照的不好：）见谅！<br /><br />22日早离开婺源，乘汽车到衢州，转火车到诸暨——西施的故乡。<br />今天上午转了转诸暨。<br />西施殿里似乎也没什么可看的。由于时代太久远了，西施长的怎么样已无从知道，西施雕相只是按照中国传统美人样子塑造。<br /><;br />从地图上看，市区旁有个革命烈士陵园，时间还有就去看看。知道诸暨抗日战争时出了一些国民党抗战将领，说不定也能顺便看看。进去转了转，问了几个人，才知革命烈士陵园除了有座革命烈士纪念碑和纪念馆外，没有烈士墓，倒是山腰上有些普通居民的坟墓。。。。。。现在杭州.<br />到杭州主要是要添些装备，昨傍晚好不容易找到杭州嘉禾户外，添了帐篷、防潮垫和冲锋裤。帐篷是FERRINO单人帐，合重1500K，只是必须扎钉才能立起，打折后636元。断码冲锋裤170元，SHEHE牌，还行吧。买完东西，天已黑，还要去取换拉练的快干裤已来不及，本想今早去取不碍事，没想旁边人说缝纫大姐打两份工，要10点才能来。。。。。<br /><br />来网吧消磨些时间，随便把一些车票等记录下，不再带：<br />;海口——广州，3月16日18：58时火车，138元硬座<br />广州——景德镇，3月17日9：29时火车，158元硬座<br />景德镇——婺源北站，3月18日早汽车，19元<br />婺源西站——衢州，3月22日9：15汽车，40元<;br />衢州——诸暨，3月22日14：31火车，26元<br />诸暨——杭州，3月24日9：10火车，10元<br /><br />诸暨西施殿，45元到绍兴古镇<;br /><br />;绍兴咸亨酒店<br />百草园<br />秋风秋雨秋煞人。。。<br />;绍兴古街<br />绍兴城市广场古塔<br />功课没作好，本想到余姚通过杭州湾大桥到嘉兴，在火车候车时才听说杭州湾大桥还没通车：），后决定到余姚前一站——鲁迅故乡绍兴下车。<br />昨天下午和今上午逛了逛，感觉绍兴还有些味道：绍兴不仅是鲁迅 2;秋瑾\;周总理的故乡祖居地，还有一条临水的仓直桥古街，还是有江南水乡的感觉。<br /><br />在鲁迅故居走了走，从百草圆走到三味书屋，想象着鲁迅童年有趣的生活；故居祖居地还比较大，有一些房子设为相关展览馆，还是有不少屋子空静地锁着，游人也不多，一人行在其间，有种说不出的气氛，似乎是鲁迅“无语”的感觉......<br />今一大早起来，从古街走到城市广场，星期天出来晒太阳的家庭不少。<;br />等会继续参观完鲁迅故居其它景点，还要去瞻仰秋瑾故居，下午到嘉兴......一些票据：<br />;鲁迅故里（5景点），60元<;br />蔡元培故里，8元<br />秋瑾故居，10元<br /><;br />杭州——余姚，3月25日13：48时，20元硬座（绍兴下）<br />绍兴——嘉兴，3月26日16：53.时，14元无座<br />嘉兴北站——西塘，3月27日早，郊区公交车，6元（28日早返）<br />嘉兴西站——乌镇，3月28日10：20时，郊区公交车，8。30元<br />;这个网吧竟然屏蔽移动硬盘。。。。。图片以后再贴。<br /><br />绍兴还是蔡元培的故乡，也是兰亭所在地，还有陆游爱情见证沈园（后两处因赶火车没能去），值得浏览看看。<br /><br />西塘沿河长廊还是比较有特点，还行。<br />与凤凰相比，还是凤凰味道更浓些。虽然西塘古镇内的河水似乎更长些，还有分叉，小石桥也不少，但河水似乎静止不流，凤凰的沱沱河墨绿清澈，还有民族风情；凤凰的虹桥夜晚灯火通明，西塘夜晚就没有这样的“亮点”，拍照不容易，西塘夜晚显得安静冷清。([]
欧美片
童宜蓁前序前段时间在文字版上看到有很多文人墨客在吟诗作对时气喘吁吁高潮迭起，俺对他她们欣慕之余，自个儿也努力创作了一首富有知识分子情调的抒情诗，请大伙儿端上一杯清茶来欣赏：啊—啊——啊———狗日的欧罗巴呀你丫的真是好遥远啊看来诗人这碗饭也不容易吃，不过做不成诗人也不要紧，生活还的要继续！去年穆里尼奥在意大利调侃说有些知识分子在卖淫，资本主义国家的知识分子脸皮薄啊，当时一些知识分子听后抹不开脸哭哭啼啼的可不乐意了。不过咱们国家的知识分子要坚强好玩多了，比如说一些混迹于户外俱乐部、户外网站的小资产阶级知识分子平时很委婉娇情半死不活装模作样的户外，但一看到有是非、吵架、意淫囗淫、色迷迷等场面时就立马荷尔蒙飙升后各类小团伙出动上下翻滚活跃异常，那可是即性感又可爱啦！哎 说实在的，其实俺也不怎么想去欧洲，那地儿不管是政治、文化、饮食、还是社会国民的文明程度跟俺们中国八杆子都打不到一块。在欧洲这地方很不方便又很不自由，您想啊，平日俺们大多数中国老乡自由惯了，上个街可以乱穿马路，喉咙不舒服了可以随地啪的一声飞痰而出，公共场合还可以随时吸烟和大声喧哗，要是有财有势的中国人那就更爽了！可是一到欧洲俺们这些引人深思的优越感也就荡然无存了，欧洲对咱们来说那可是大牢笼啊！更可恨的是欧洲某些登山界的朋友太傲慢无礼了，同样是登上了八千米峰，可他们就是自以为是的对俺们国家那些登上八千米峰的勇士们不待见。大家都知道，在俺们国家能上八千米峰的登山客那可基本上都是活跃于上流社会的富贵大亨、才子佳人，他们登上峰顶就像爬上某个当红女明星（比如冰冰、志玲、国际章...）的床那般激情豪迈，过程既生猛又不失儒雅，是咱们大家学习的好榜样！可这些死老外就是不解这样的风情，总以为按照他们无保姆式的登山意境才算是真正意义上的登山。虽然欧洲比起俺们中国来不怎么地，但俺还是要忍不住的要踩上它的土地，大千世界浩海无边，要是让俺一辈子都呆在国内不看看外面的世界那始终不甘心，七大洲里怎么也的要踩上个几洲。这些发达国家说起来还真不是好东西耶，它们的国民来俺们中国时证手续办起来很简单方便，到了俺们中国后除了要给他们好吃好住外，还的每年很不情愿地奉献出很多花姑娘给他们以显摆俺们中华民族的好客之道，对于这样荒谬的事情咱们这里的很多男青年是敢怒不敢言啦。 有了想法就开始行动啦，出发之前总要先看看攻略吧，很喜欢那些白领们写的攻略，他她们不但文字写得细腻富有渲染性的腔调，而且又都鲜衣怒马、年少多金，人也生得细皮嫩肉的讨人欢喜。可是那些攻略俺看着看着就看得就心惊肉跳了，要是按照她他们那抄底LV、爱马仕、百莲翡达等大手大脚的消费方式那俺呆不到回国就已经破产洗白了。还有就是这些孩子平时也难的出去玩，他她们到了那就把那描绘的像天堂似的，简直就能把罗玉凤吹嘘成李美凤，全信他她们很容易上当，所以还是带本LP走更加客观真实。生活真不容易啊！一出去俺人不生地不熟不懂外语又没钱财的在欧洲那简直是羊入虎口呀，注定了要磕磕碰碰地消磨完这段烦恼的日子。写到这论坛里一些平时能码很多字的文化人阴阴的笑了：“哼哼，你扎西都没半点文化也敢去欧洲啊”。俺回应道：“咦 你们这说得是啥话呐，难不成只准你们这些冒着孔乙己似酸气的知识分子去就不许咱们没文化的人出去开开眼界啦?”。虽然俺只是小学文化程度，不似像你们那样外语顺溜的都能在国外坑蒙拐骗了。但俺至少也能背的出二十六个英文字母会说十句以上的日常用语，这要放在偏僻的小山沟里那也算得上是有文化的知识分子啦，哈哈。。。听说欧洲某些地方比俺们国家的很多西部小县城还要落后，平时想上网连个网吧都难找到，你看在俺们很多县城的网吧数量就比银行高多啦。俺上不了网不在的时候大伙们可以自个儿进来灌灌水、调调情，千万别拘束，咱的地盘就由你们来作主啦。 行程：希腊、意大利、瑞士、奥地利、捷克、德国、荷兰、比利时、卢森堡、法国 带上些不可或缺的物品：电子翻译器、转换头、三角架、帐篷、国家分区地图、旅行支票、ＬＰ、电热杯 十年前就想去欧洲了，但是犹如大家众所周之的原因，持普通因私护照去西方并不是易事。欧洲就像一座厚厚的石墙那样挡在俺的面前，俺曾在这堵墙前犹豫、傍徨过，但人生总会有第一次。后来——就像现在大家都知道的那样，看似那坚不可摧欧洲的墙就如处女的膜那样一捅就破。。。办证先要去证中心预约去领事馆的面时间，最近去欧洲的人特多，人人都想去抄底，预约面时间都排到了一个月后。过了一个月后俺带齐材料去长乐路的领事馆面，俺没工作证明、没收入证明、也没信用卡，欧洲申根也只申请了63天的行程。到了领事馆后先在大厅的工作人员办公处把材料给他们过目，当时工作人员发现俺材料上的职业一栏没填就要俺补上，他问俺是啥职业，俺就答已经退休了，他说退休要有退休证才行，俺都没帮别人打过工那来的退休证啊！当即跟他说职业一栏就填“旅行者”吧，他说可以，那俺就填职业是“旅行者”。今天领事馆的四个面试官有一位是老外大姐，二位三十左右的华裔MM，一位二十出头的华裔MM。接待俺的E窗囗面试官是那位二十出头清纯可爱的华裔MM，我去到窗口时主动打招呼向她问好，她翻看我的材料和旅行照片十几秒后抬头向俺微笑道：“很多人都羡慕你的生活啊！”。见她如此说俺也礼尚往来对她道：“很多女孩子也喜欢你这样的工作啊”！就这样她问问我、我也问问她，面过程在平等、友好、协商的气氛中进行着。最后。。。我向她倾诉道：“如果多给我十天证我就可以去葡萄牙啦”，当时自己对她这么说过后也没当回事。几天后，去证中心取护照，当拆开纸袋打开护照一看原来俺申请的63天证变成了81天证，多给了俺18天的证！去欧洲买的是单程机票,在游完欧洲后再想去非洲的摩洛哥,很喜欢那里阿拉伯人居住充满市井味的老城，可是那里的证不容易到，那只有到了欧洲后遍地撒网，在摩洛哥时还同时土耳其、埃及，如果不到摩洛哥就在另外两个国家里选一个啦，然后一路慢慢的回国。。。 8月7号凌晨从上海乘卡塔尔航空中途在多哈转机，单徎5100RMB/人(含税)。卡塔尔航空的硬件设施和服务质量都还是挺不错的，托运的行李直接让送到终点站就可以了，转机的时候不用自己再办手续。几程飞机下来都挺准点的。飞机主要是空客330和340，每个位置后面都有一个小屏幕，可以看电影玩游戏什么的。如果精力充沛的话，即使不睡觉也不会闷。餐饮供应非常充足，两程飞机加起来差不错吃了4餐。当然，如果你已经困了想休息，只需要一个小贴在座位后面，乘务人员就不会来打搅你了。 8号中午12点多到了雅典机场，坐X95机场大巴到宪法广场后换地铁到Metaxourghio的地方找旅馆住，这是个土耳其人、非洲人的居留地，区域里有很多当街注射的道友，还有散落着大量的妓院，各类旅馆、星级酒店也混合在其中，很有古龙武侠小说里的江湖味道。。。我的旅馆，40欧元一晚（包早餐）我那憨厚的房东下午时的国会大厦站岗的卫兵卫兵在换岗中看客们看客们大热天的还要穿这么密的服装，卫兵这口饭也不好吃8月是音乐节，在宪法广场上有群体舞蹈表演围着圈圈跳起来早晨巷子里的教堂老乡们在里面上着早课在离开雅典的十天时间里陆续走了圣托里尼岛、帕罗斯岛、米科诺斯岛，咋晚米科诺斯岛有上千对同性恋在岛上小威尼斯的各个酒吧里开派对，直到天亮，很壮观。俺今天中午十二点坐船离开米科诺斯岛回雅典，现在码头饭馆无线上网，明天有大量的图发上来。。。圣托里尼岛（Santorini）位于希腊大陆东南200公里处，是基克拉泽群岛（Cycladesislandcomplex）的最南端，是由爱琴海上的一组火山组成的岛环，小岛原本是圆形的，3500年前，这里火山爆发，引起巨大的海啸，这次火山爆发被科学家认为也许是目前为止人类文明史上最巨大的一次地质运动。岛屿中心大面积塌陷，使得原来的圆形岛屿变成现在的月牙形。 圣托里尼火山是一座活火山，最近的一次是在1956年曾经喷发过一次，在火山口形成的巨大的海湾中心，有一个1707年浮出海面的小岛---NeaKamini。它的旁边有一座更加古老的小岛--PaliaKamini，在上面可以进行热泥浴。这表明了在小岛的下面有地质活动的现象。说不定什么时间火山还会喷发。 有考古学家认为圣托里尼就是柏拉图笔下那个神秘而理想的国度------亚特兰蒂斯的遗存，他们认为岛上发掘出的文明遗址与柏拉图笔下的亚特兰蒂斯惊人相似，一座在海面之下沉睡的古老城市。圣岛主要的镇基本就是Fria、OIA、Imerovigli和Firostefani这几个。其中Fira是全岛的交通中心，也是最为热闹的镇，圣托里尼岛上面的公交还是比较准时的，如果不想跑太多的地方，只在几个主要的镇上玩玩，坐公交就可以了。在Fira、Oia的公交总站上面都有时刻表，用相机拍下来慢慢看就好了 圣托里尼，有的网友把她比作天堂，而有的网友眼中只不过是一个秃岛。诚然，圣岛也有不那么完美的一面，特别是和欧洲其他国家相比，这里的基础设施确实要差一些，相对也没有那么干净和整洁。但瑕不掩瑜，俺还是觉得圣岛的美确实是独一无二，令人震撼和感动的。爱琴海上独有的碧海蓝天本身就是一张最好的布景板，在其衬托之下，简简单单的一朵红花，一面白墙都会呈现出令人心动的美。由于火山爆发而形成的悬崖地貌，又赋予我们一种独特的视角，再加上依悬崖而建的层层叠叠的传统洞穴屋，带来了无穷的光影变化，剩下的就是要靠我们用心灵去感受，用灵感去发现了。夜色下的港口([
吴梦梦国产剧情无套在咖啡馆
柳坤绿从菲律宾回来已经四个月了，一直忙忙碌碌的，也懒得写游记，但是在菲律宾的一点一滴时常浮现在眼前，那里的海滩，那里的珊瑚，那里的鱼儿，那里的螃蟹船，那里热情的人们，还有那里美味的海鲜，浓浓的芒果冰沙，地道的SPA，一切的一切，勾引着我内心的欲望，何时才能再次回到梦中的地方。。。科隆岛的日落。。。我们的EBC链接https//bbs.8264.com/thread-1540409-1-1.html马来西亚沙巴 仙本娜https//bbs.8264.com/thread-2173681-1-1.html科隆岛镜湖，很多杂志上都有的风景。。。 一起在菲律宾FB的家伙，也曾一起走过EBC，那些日子将成为生命中最美好的记忆。。。艾妮岛上的海鲜大餐。。。在艾妮岛的海滩上，大家一起开心着。。。倒带，时间回到2012，在即将踏上EBC的前夕，心跳抢到了宿雾航空广州飞马尼拉的特价票，于是乎在还没有去尼泊尔徒步的时候，我们几个就定了2013春节后飞马尼拉的机票，决定在EBC自虐后来个菲律宾FB游，广州飞马尼拉、马尼拉飞艾妮岛公主港、马尼拉飞上海，三程机票含税一共才一千，很便宜吧！从EBC徒步回来后就盼着日子快点过，想象着迷人的海岛，美味的海鲜，早早的整理好背包，就盼着出发的那一天赶紧到来。。。没有买行李票，所以随身行李不能超过7公斤，再拎个防水袋，用得着。。。2013.02.13 一早就从常州赶往上海浦东机场，乘1235的飞机飞广州和心跳夫妇、小尾巴、金童集合。浦东机场里的巨幅奥德臣广告。。。值机柜台前。。。准备进安检。。。刚过年，天气还是很冷的，旅客们还是羽绒服、棉袄，为了尽量少带东西，我就穿了条单裤，反正广州也不会太冷的。。。进了安检，小跑已经到了，聊了一会就上飞机了，窗外阴霾的天气和我们愉快的心情形成了鲜明的对比，我的心早就飞到了海边。。。在飞机上听歌打发时间。。。提前半小时到达广州，飞行员真厉害。。。飞机一着落，赶紧打电话给心跳，他还在加油，说马上到，打电话给小尾巴，他已经到机场来接我们了。。。一出来就看到了小尾巴，三个月不见，这家伙胖了不少我和小跑。。。候机楼外阳光明媚。。。心跳来接我们了，这家伙挺精神的。还有一个金童没到，她是虹桥机场飞广州的，晚点了，继续等。。。候机楼外。。。等了差不多半个小时金童也到了，上车，今天先到深圳去和一起徒步的朋友聚会。。。一个多小时的路程，很快就到了，悟然和贵妃、巧儿在前面给我们引路，来到雅园饭店，香港的自由也到了，大家互相拥抱，诉说别后的思念。。。小尾巴从内蒙带来的王府白酒，悟然准备的洋酒和红酒。。。左起：小跑、金童、巧儿、悟然、贵妃、心跳、小尾巴、自由。。。席间，大家喝着、吃着、谈着、笑着，仿佛又回到了EBC开心的时刻。。。自由笑的多开心啊。。。酒足饭饱，大伙一起去嗨歌。。。(
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黄玉喜Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangMr YANG Liusong, a Chinese who just finished the first solo traverse over Chang Tang by cycling from west to east in recorded human history, shared his stunning Expedition with all of us through the forum 8264 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-512349-1-1.html . In order to share his legendary journey with those who cannot read Chinese, I translate his story to English here, which has been approved by Mr YANG Liusong. Hope you guys enjoy it.为了让杨同学的传奇能让全世界的驴友分享，俺决定把杨同学的帖子翻译成英文。为了避免麻烦，俺先来个免责声明：1。杨同学不认识俺，也没有授权俺，如果他说不要翻译了那俺就随时终止；2。俺没有商业目的，译版版权归杨同学，俺啥也不要，也不承担法律责任；3。没有杨同学授权，不敢擅自发在国外网站，发在原帖处，荣誉归8264；4。俺英语水平有限，欢迎指正，欢迎转贴。 Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangBy Yang LiusongIt has been three months since I traversed the unpopulated region in the Great Chang Tang. There are many like-minded asking me about it. I now present this thread to briefly tell everybody about my journey.The starting point of this traverse was from the highest peak of the western part of the Tibetan plateau, Jieshan Daban, and the day was April 20, 2010.I was heading eastward passing Bungdag Co, Yanghu Co, Rola Co, and Kangzhagri Mountain, which crossed over the desolate region from west to east. The journey continued northward to enter the unpopulated area of Altun Mountains, through Hoh Xil Mountains, Kunlun Mountains, Whale lake, ..., finally met some people by the Aqqikkol Hu and then arrived in Huatugou by vehicle three days later and that day was July 5. It had been 77 days in total. I had been all alone 74 days after leaving Jieshan Daban until arriving inAqqikkol Hu, which was about 1400km and about four months.[The Great Chang Tang] In Tibetan, "Chang Tang" means northern empty wilderness while narrowly, means unpopulated region in northern part of Tibet. However, it actually indiCATes all of the no man's land in northern. The great Chang Tang includes desolate places in Northern Tibet, Hoh Xil, Alun Mountains, and Kunlun Mountains, which are interconnected to form the unique and super empty wilderness in the world. Only because Hoh Xil is the most known name, most people just think this vast land is equivalent to Hoh Xil. In reality, Hoh Xil is only a small piece of the Great Chang Tang both administratively and geologically. The Great Chang Tang, the last land to chase your freedom and dream.The route that I traversed ForeplayI arrived in Tibet in the early March, a couple of troubles bothered me. The brand new plug got its positive and negative wrongly connected; the rivets of my rucksack eASIly got broken from now and again; and a multi-functional charger got damaged and so on. Riding my bike to Ngari for warming up of this journey, lost my rucksack but later got it back; lost my camera bag and got it back later again, and finally lost a big bicycle pannier in the street of Gyangze town under the eyes of police, including clothes, solar panel and so on.Without much choice, I returned to Lhasa to adjust all the stuff I would need in the wilderness. Then I begged some luck by going to Nyingchi to enjoy the blossoms of peach trees and to take a hot spring bath. I even had the privilege to enjoy time with ten girls in the hot spring. I felt my bad luck had all gone and then returned to Lhasa again to prepare going to Ngari. I did not expect that I was cheated on by some hustler and lost some money and delayed my schedule for a week. I had to find a car myself quickly to Nagri. However, I lost the tool for fast-parting my rear wheel on my way to Nagri, where was a remote area in Tibet and nowhere to buy the tool. Even if there was one in Lhasa it would take at least ten days for a special delivery service. I was lucky that my mate Duola asked a driver to bring the tool for me from Lhasa. I thought there should be no more nightmare like this but the nozzle of my brand new multi-fuel stove was broken. The next day I tried everywhere to weld them back together. The first three shops could not do the welding for copper. The fourth one said they could do it but could not guarantee a sUCCess. The engineer said it would be ten Chinese yuans if it was a success. I agreed. Just in seconds, my nozzle became crap in a flash of lightening. I was so upset. Again, Duola helped me by bringing her own MSR oil stove and Dingding's sleeping bag to Nagri. That was already April 16 and I did not have much time to waste. The following day I found a vehicle heading to Jieshan Daban.The sand storm over Yarlung Zangbo RiverA lonely peach tree blossoming in Yarlung Zangbo Grand CanyonNatural hot spring in wild, me singing and drinking (photo by a friend of mine) Day 1(April 20), 16km, Camping 5192mIt was a truck with a full load of iron wastes, arriving in Jieshan Daban at 6'o clock in the morning. It was still night and extremely cold and dark. Driver was not bothered to pop his head out of the driving cab. I climbed up on the top of the iron wastes, taking my bicycle down. In a hurry, I punched my old water bag. Fortunately I had another MSR water bag given by a friend of mine otherwise I would definitely fail without even starting my journey. For the first time for me to set up the brand new tent in strong, cold winds. It would be impossible to do so if the tent was not a whole piece. Extremely cold outside, about -15C, might be lower than that, I put my head into the sleeping bag but was nearly suffocated to death, honestly. The smell of Dingding's sleeping bag was, lol, so extraordinary. I woke up around 11 o'clock. There were still strong winds outside so that I had to use my bodyweight to keep the tent in place. At the time when I just started to cook and eat, four patrolling soldiers approached me. To their surprise someone, in this season, camped in Jieshan Daban. I was so nervous and afraid they were the people to block my journey because I was caught and deported from the desolate land last year. Luckily the four soldiers did not know my destination and were very kind to me. After they left, I immediately packed my stuff and pushed my bike into the depths of the unpopulated area just in case anything unexpected happened.The bike was very heavy due to the provisions and hard to control. There was even a quite small hill that I had to remove my bike panniers to get over it. This really struck me because this happened even the path was still the hardship one at the moment and I could not imagine what I would do once I entered the uncertain, endless wilderness. Until now I had not met anyone, even the nomadic pastoralists. I remembered there were quite a few of them roaming at the edge of the northern Tibetan plateau last year. All of these indicated it was not the good pasture season in such low temperature and strong winds. Around 16km there was a sheep cote, where I passed it last year, east of Lungmu Co. I was exhausted at this point so that I decided to camp in here and to rest my head. After arranging tent everything I went out to look for the wetland discovered by Duola and Liumeng last year. I was determined to find it.There were many hot springs in the wetland which were underground water with a constant temperature. The wetland therefore became an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such harsh weather, which was the very unique land feature of terrain in this over 5200m highland.Perpetual snow in the valley blown to corn shape by strong windsThis wetland was discovered by Duola and Liumeng. The workers at a nearby mine did not know it and I too missed it last yearUnderground water with a constant temperature, an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such icy weather 感谢大伙儿支持和加分，不一一回复了。特别感谢多啦，希望能有机会一起喝酒吃肉。 Day 2 (April 21), 0km, Camping5192mBlustering gale all night, up and down like ocean waves. The next day rather than continuing to travel, I stayed inside the sheep cote, hesitating and pondering over. Indeed, there were so many problems before this journey;I did not have sufficient physical preparation;the load had already reached its limitation; I still coughed a lot;the weather was so extreme and cold. All in all, I did not think this journey was well prepared and I did not have confidence in completing this journey mentally and physically. To do, or not to do, it was the question. Similarly I did not have confidence in my facilities, not knowing whether all of them would work functionally or not. The fact was one of the rivets got broken again and the front rack came loose. In the afternoon, I replaced all the rivets of the panniers with screws I had prepared before. This was an excellent job I had done which gave me no further troubles throughout my whole journey. I also re-adjusted the front rack. However I did not think it would definitely all right because I did not have a tool to do it. When the darkness descended,I made up my mind to continue my journey, which, of course, was not beyond any imagination. Orchid-like weedsSmall springs everywhere, clear and chillyA thin layer of ice covering the fresh spring water The sheep cote, it was the door under the sleeping bag, which was in the same place as last year, everything looked like yesterdayThe wetland at duskLungmu Co at dusk. You could hear the gigantic sound of wind if the picture had a sound Day 3 (April 22), 52.4km, Camping 5145mGot up in the morning, could not put everything into the bags. Without much choice I had to throw away three portions of tsampa, elbow pads, and crampons. Following the road of the lead-zinicmine I found the side path to enter the wilderness, which was on the riverbed and very hard to see. I missed this side path last year so that I had to take a short cut into the wilderness directly then. That was why I had taken extra care to find the side path. The following journey was to get over a big hill, which lay 5275m above sea level and was the highest point of my whole journey. Around 2 o'clock in the afternoon, I passed the side path leading to Orba Co and started a journey which was complete strange to me. I ate a piece of pilot breads, which was frozen like rocks so that I had to use my spade to crush it. At 6 o'clock in the evening, I had pushed plus rode my bicycle for about 32 km. I reckoned I should have been able to double this if I did no carry such heavy load. The wind became stronger and stronger. I opened the parasail kits and tested it. The result was far beyond what I expected. With the aid of the strong wind I was just like flying over the wilderness. After 8 o'clock in the evening, I started to observe the water Source and to get ready to camp. Map showed there were successive springs along the path and assembled to puddles. But I had overestimated the water source here in this land and in this season there were endless wilderness inside the valley, where I could not see a single drop of water. As it became darker and darker, I felt a little bit nervous which resulted in three spokes of the parasail broken and became a useless rubbish. Anyway, it helped me to move forward 20km more which benefited me a lot later on. When time approached 9.30 pm, it was almost completely dark. I had to lie my bike on the ground and went on to try to find water on the north side of the valley. This was a wide and flat sandy land, where I could not see any ditches there and further was complete darkness. I returned to get my GPS to look up the contours and found the south part of the valley was closer to a hill so I took the way. Finally I found a piece of ice in a ditch. I smashed about 20litre of ice. The ice was quite shallow scattered with sheep poo. On my way back, my eyes were hurt by strong winds, which got me a couple of days to recover. It was nearly 23 o'clock after I set up the tent. It also took about 40 mins to melt the ice. I was so tired and my appetite was completely spoiled. I then had a little bit of milk. I had never expected thing would go like this, it was so distressing. Streams along the path, ice everywhereThe river flew into Matou Hu, in whose north part there was a satellite lake, a wonderful ice-skating court It took 40mins to melt the ice in midnight Day 4 (April 23), 31km, Camping 5028mA cloudy day with gusts. From now and again, hails chased me from behind. Sunny spell. Heavy sandy land made me have to push my bike. At 3pm, I arrived at Luxing Hu, where there was a house made of clay. This was the last permanent building of my journey. Last year, Duola and Liumeng once lived in this house for three days without meeting anybody. It seemed it was the same but the truck parking in front of the house made me worry about. I went to the sheep cote first to check over, where there were only a few lambs following me everywhere I went later on. This made me feel warm in my heart. I observed farther places using my binoculars but could not see any people or sheeps. After making sure there were no people around I opened the locked door using a screwdriver. The living room was very clean. There were two boxes of beverages on the ground and a string of cured lamb legs hanging over in the interior room. A pot of water was on the top of the stove, lukewarm, which indicated the host must be not far away from his home. I filled up my water bag and left the house. I also put the screws back to the door in order not to leave any trace of my visiting. I then took a spanner from the toolbox of the truck, which gave me great help for the rest of the journey.I left the house as quickly as possible. After last year's experience, the nomadic pastoralists were the last people I wanted to meet. A few hundred meters away from the house, the vehicle traces were fading fast. Even downhill, I had to push rather than to ride because of the heavy loose sand. From the route point of view, only after Luxing Hu it was the real unpopulated land. After many days, I thought of the lamb legs from time to time. It was pity that I then had plenty of provisions and the bike was too heavy to carry anything more. Continue to melt the ice under the morning sunshine, all of the sheep poo had been removed carefullyCamping site, the little hill over there was the place where I got the ice last nightThe house by the Luxing Hu, empty, the last permanent building I saw throughout my journeyDay 5 (April 24), 19.8km, Camping 4951mSet off at 10.30 in the morning, the weather was similar to yesterday. Probably this road was the high plain or somewhere the wind passed so that it was so windy. The average wind speed was degree 6 but could reach degree 9 in the blick of an eye. The road was still full of sand and very heavy to walk on it. My eyes became worse under such harsh weather. About three o'clock in the afternoon, I saw something in my right, looked like antenna. I went closer to see what it was and found out it was an iron tower (the triangulation station). In 1970s, a joint team from Chinese three military regiments entered this area doing research. They have left a lot of triangulation stations and benchmarks, which I had the priviledge to see them today.At dusk, I approached to a spring by the Bungdag Co, which flew into the frozon lake. The sand and soil, brought by the strong wind, scattered on the surface of the ice all over the lake. There were so many cracks around the icey surface of the lake. I geussed it must be caused by the springs under the water rather than by melted ice. In the west of the Bungdag Co was the side path leading to Keriya Pass, where a SUV could reach directly. I had looked out any vehicle Tracks but failed. The cloudy sky started to snow. I set up the tent comfortably because I knew that I was safe having such a sweet spring beside me.Triangulation station erected by scientists from the joint research team on Chang Tang of three military regiments in 1971[size=+0]The gap between water and ice in Bungdag Co, I guessed there must be some springs under the lakeThe storm just above the ground, a chaotic darkness[size=+0]Icy Bungdag Co,one of the four biggest lakes in Northern Tibet, wild ducks flying over this vastness and lonenessSnowing at any time, should not happen so frequently like this in this seasonDay 6 (April 25), 4.3km, Camping 5002mWeathering landforms everywhere around this area. Spongy volcanic rocks could be found easily. I pushed my bike turning around a small hill, seeing a big river, the Yinshui He, flowing from Orba Co into Bungdag Co, which I had been to its upstream last year. It was also a passage for animal migration. The downstream of the river was extremely wide and broad. The thickess of the ice layer could reach one meter with the main stem in the middle course of the river, very deep. There were a few springs along the river, sweet and clear.I only went forward a little bit more than 4km but I had walked more than 20km for finding my way. It was not possible to cross the main stem, let alone the north bank of Bungdad Co. What I could only do was to try to find a shallow place to cross. But the southern area was a even larger piece of wetland and forced the road turn towards west. I spent a couple of hours but failed to find a good point to cross the river. In the afternoon, I decided to follow the edge of the wetland. When I reached the hill foot, the wetland finally disappeared. Around this area, there were clearly volcanic feature of terrain and I even found traces of pasturing and cairns made from volcanic rock.Here was the last pasturing trace I found throughout my journey, I guessed it was a summer pasture area. After this, there was no clear sign of human activities in this vast wilderness. I had been looking for my ways until it was dark. I made up my mind where to go TOMOrrow. The terrain here looked like Yardang landforms, as well as volcanic landforms The Yinshui He river from Orba CoSprings scattered all over the river bank, painted green by lovely algaeThe river was very deep. The mixture of green and amber colour showed the sand and mud carried by the melted iceThick layer of ice, sunken surface caused by strong gustsThe south course of the Yinshui He, countless small streams. To the right was the wetlandLooking for ways in the east, a trace of pasturing and the cairn made from spongy volcanic rocksMy camp, opposite to the hillDay 7 (April 26), 11km, Camping 5009mI moved forward to the direction I found yesterday, turning around the wetland and walking toward east. At 2pm, I was blocked by the zigzag Yinshui He again and I had no choice but to cross it. The river was about 700m wide, covered by ice which appeared very different. The hanging ice, the folding ice, the piling-up ice, the icy puddle, and the sleet were everywhere along the river bank. Having noticed all of these, I reckoned the river would be receding at dusk, which was why there were so many different shapes and forms of ice. I put my slipper on, going into the main stream of the river. I found there were at least three different courses of the river, the thickness of the surface ice varied and the river water reached above my knees. I sighed there would be no way back once I crossed this river. There are many ways in one's life too, you can only take it once and you will no long have the courage to repeat it.I pushed the bike crossing the river. Some of the ice was a bit soft, jamming the tyres so that I had to use my feet to break them first. Some of the ice was a bit thick but with half-melted underneath, sticking the the bike completely, some of the ice was half-water half-ice with a sandy riverbed, which was really hard to pass. I had to remove all of the panniers at the last stage of the crossing. I spent the whole four hours to cross the river, my legs got many bloody cuts. At 6pm, the surface ice was almost disappeared completely, the river level rapidly rising to a chaotic status. I thought if I hesitated a little bit at that time, I could not have the courage to cross this river under such circumstances. The river bank was unimaginably sandy and was quite steep. I had to unloaded the panniers again to reach the top of the bank. By the time of sunset, the weather became exceptionally good. The sunlight from the descending sun, the blue sky, the faint moon, .... I liked such a colorful and peaceful Chang Tang and very much enjoyed my camp and myself bathed in such beautiful colour.The ice like this was very thin and suspended, far away from the main stemHard surface with half-melted underneath, the soft sand at the botton was most scaryThe ice like this could easily jam the wheels, hard to get it outI had to unload the panniersChaotic water and terrible hails turned up in no timeThe Chang Tang at the moment liked it used to be,a mixture of cold and warm tones under the golden setting sun Day 8 (April 27), 14.6km, Camping 5112mLast night, I forgot to bring in the odometer, which was out of order due to the coldness in midnight. Since then I used GPS to check the mileage. The digital thermometer was no longer working. I had to use mercury thermometer to collect data. Night temperatures were basically between –15℃—–20℃ while the temperature inside my tent was about –10℃. The advantage of the integrated tent was that it limited the ventilation so to keep warm inside. However, it got clearly disadvantage of heavy condensation and dew. Every morning, there was plenty of frost inside the tent so that I had to put my hood on First Before fully getting dressed. The winds in Chang Tang finally became consistent with the pattern I had researched the other day no or very tiny wind in the morning, strong wind started after 2pm, and then at around 8pm its strength was reduced again. The accuracy of this prediction was about 80%.The road was very bad today. I walked whole afternoon in an ancient riverbed and it was so difficult that I had to use all of my strengths to move a small step forward and then to stop to breath, slower than a snail. After five hours' struggling, my eyes got wet when I saw the grassy river bank. Finally! The nightmare was over.Cold and clear morningHeavy morning condensation in the interior, a lot of frost to clearSuch dawning sunlight indicated a cloudy day ahead Day 9 (April 28), 18km, 5072mIn the morning I entered a range of sandy roads which were so terrible. The solar panel specially designed for GPS got short circuited. After checking it was found to be the diode got damaged. Luckily I got a replacement. Because the GPS was exclusively supplied by a solar panel so that it was no longer a problem for the power supplement of GPS. In a period of 70 days, I did replace the battery once, which saved me a lot of alkaline batteries. I did have another solar panel of 5.4 W which was used specifically for 7.5V Camera, DV and other digital facilities. Unlike water, I had never been short of power.At 7pm in the evening, I arrived at Pur Co. The surface of this lake was very odd the ice by the river bank rose and the river bank was broken, I reckoned that was due to the strong winds. The ice there was mingled with something yellow, could be the stain of alkali. There were many wild yaks on the other side of the lake. There could be two brown bears but I could not be for certain. On the east side of the lake, there was a peninsula leading to the centre of the lake. I camped just opposite to the peninsula. At night , I smashed the ice to get drinking water, which tasted alkali. For the first time I cooked the cereals, which was brought completely by accident. This was just because I found there was a little bit of extra space when I was in Nagri packing the stuff for this journey so that I bought two packs of cereals. It tasted disgusting, probably there was too much alkali in the water. I threw away half of it. Later I realised that probably I subconsciously felt that the provisions was so heavy. I would rather make it lighter at any cost.Dry all my stuff in the morning sun, a routine matterA faint dusk in Pur CoThe river bank pushed up by ice and opened like zipper by gustsThe pushed up surface of the iceThe place where I got my drinking water, a thin layer of ice behind the ablation corns The moment just before sun set, glittering Pur Co, nothing was the same差点儿没找到俺自己的帖子，原来变色了。多谢各位鼓励。 Day 10 (April 29), 16km, Camping 5141mIn the morning, I walked around the north bank of the Pur Co， where it were continuous ups and downs sprinkled with light yellow sprouts across the sparse grassland. The wild yaks clustered into small groups. All of a sudden, there was a group of five of them running towards me, blowing a huge cloud of dust with the power of thunderbolts,I believed that anyone who did not know the characters of the wild yaks must be frightened to death under such circumstances. The fact was the wild yaks in groups never injured people. Rushing to you just to show you its territory. When they approached people at certain distance, they would turn sharply and run away, and then stopped somewhere high to stare at you. You can not imagine that the wild yaks were very cautious animals compared with its almost one ton of weight. Their first reaction, when meeting people, was to raise their tails, the front hooves rubbing against the ground, the horns pointing forward, the eyes redden, and the long body hair shaking, all of which showed their determination to fight.This was the warning sign that you should retreat. However, you should realise that this was only a gesture that they were afraid of you and wanted to scare you away. The thing was that if you were not afraid of them and moved forward, they would run away in no time. There were only some mad yaks attacking people, which was really rare to happen. In Chang Tang, an experienced driver know that it is very dangerous to pass directly from two or three lonely wild yaks. They always tried to avoid confronting them directly. If this was not possible, they would lit a cigarette, smoking, to wait until the yaks walked away themselves. This was because the wild yaks really could attack vehicles, which was not completely rumors. I once asked them why I had not been attacked. They told me that because my bike was so small they would not be bothered to attack it. My own experience was that approaching a wild yak very slowly, do not look into its eyes, and ignored what it was doing. As long as it moved forward a little bit, just stop and give the yaks a little bit of time to think. Because if you forced the yak, it could be themost dangerous animal in the world and nothing could stop them killing. Even a gunshot could not kill it but only left a small hole in its skin. In the past, the nomads living near this land would use yaks' skin as chopping board which was very much endurable. At noon, I lost my balacLAVA, which was brand new and I had never used it once. I could not be bothered to go back tofind it. This resulted in that I had to have my fleece hat day and night in the rest of my journey, which did not provide fully protection from the sun in the plateau. But somehow I was all right, perhaps because my skin is similar to those of yaks, lol. At around half past one, I found a deserted Jeep, upside down. I felt it could be there for years and it could be the vehicle of someillegal HUNTERs. Nowadays, we have wildlife conservation reserves in Chang Tang and the animals here are well protected. However, some people kills the wild yaks to sell them as the domestic yak's meat. In general, it is worth 10,000 Chinese yuans for a single wild yak. Therefore many people take the risk to make money. They often enter the unpopulated areas to hunt and their activities can reach 200 km in diameter. This is why the wild yaks in the deep wilderness are less afraid of people than thoseat the boundaries of the Chang Tang region.There once happened that a wild yak mother revenged its baby's murder in the Altun mountains. Its horns pierced the killer's chest and held his body over its head for more than ten days, which was very touching.Around 3pm, I walked out of the Pur basin. The next point was Hong Shan Daban and then it was the Yueya Hu by the Toze Gangri. At this time I found a vehicle track from south to north. I checked over but could not find the way where they had gone. I took my map, GPS, and compass, climbing up a small hill to estimate the location of Hong Shan Daban. The mountain was very round and it was hard to find the mountain pass. After determining the location of the Daban, I moved straightforward. When I passed a messy grassland, I saw something that I was reluctant to see more than hundreds of wild yaks' head scattered all over, which was definitely the scene of the illegal hunting. After that it was a very long ancient river bed with soft sand slowly rising until the foot of the mountain.There are some spines on the surface of the tongues of wild yaks, which are used by nomads in this area as combs. They use them from their teens to the time when their hair becomes silver.The deserted Jeep, could be left by illegal hunters years agoThe slaughtered wild yaks with the wheel size heads. Some of the skulls were chopped into half. Why was that? Could be taken away for making combs?My camp at the foot of the Daban underthe lingering golden rays of the setting sun. Tomorrow's weather must be wonderful, I reckoned Day 11(April 30)， 20.4km, Camping 5120mThe surface of the road leading to Hong Shan Daban was very hard, most of them were small rocks, sort of gravels, plus a quite long downhill slope, I pushed my bike more than 20km for the first time after Luxing Hu. The mountain pass was quite flat, just like a broad ridge, it was 5256m above the sea level. Upon arriving at the pass, Toze Gangri of 6356m was in my sight clearly, very much round and there was no back bone like normal snow covered mountains. Most of the snow mountains in Chang Tang looked like this probably it was due to the geological movements. There were quite a few chirus or Tibetan antelopes in the valley but I was not interested in this kind of animals anymore after I witnessed a large scale of migration of such animals last year elsewhere.The herbivorous animals here are very quick to reach its original size of the population, such as wild yaks, chirus, Tibetan gazelle, pika, and marmot. When you go into the depths of the Chang Tang, you could hardly be surpised by the sudden appearance of the chirus because they are so common in here. At this time of year, the chirus have already male-female parted. You could see many pregnant female chirus but hardly see any males. According to recent research, Zonag Co is not the only lake for breeding. There are at least four of them in the whole Chang Tang. Zonag Co, Tuzi Hu, Heishi Beihu, and another lake I can not remember. I think there must be more than four of them and most of the populations do not migrant long way like most people used to think. They generally migrant from south to north between Central Mountains and Kunlun Mountains.The chirus looks very timid but are very curious about outside world. They are not really afraid of people, particularly in the depth of the Chang Tang. The nearest distance we can approach is about 30m. They just stare at you calmly and think who you are and why you move so slow. They would run in front of you. Look like they are afraid of you but the fact is they are playing with you. A man's own character shapes his fortune. This is of course suit for animals too. The chirus are the typical one. They have a super speed and a pair of sharp antlers. If they are crazy, three of them work together could easily kill a wolf. But as you might have known, their antlers are just for fighting to mate with females.Down the Daban there was a very steep and straight road, I tried to ride the bicycle but ended up with falling over. The front rack came loose and one of the pannier flew into valley. The foot of the mountain was the Yueya Hu covered by ice, which was alake full of heavy metal elements. Along the lake bank there were many stark rocks very much weathered, lining up just like castles or houses. This made me stop to investigate what they were from time to time, I did understand they were just rocks though but they were so real like the figures of real people. On of them even made me hide in a ditch, observing them again and again using my binoculars. There were also many black volcanic rocks. All in all, the features of this area were really unusual.Passed over the Yueya Hu, it was an endless ancient lake bed. What my GPS showed was this area was a big lake like tentacles. I looked around, it was endless wilderness without a piece of ice and a drop of water. Roughly, I estimated this lake bed was about 1200 square meters. I had to tell you that Chang Tang was a place where there was no high-resolution map. The marks in the map often were some kind of memory. Just like this ancient lake bed under my feet, may be it was full of water a few years ago. Who knows. Pushing the bike in such an endless lake bed was very easy to get lost. My mind was in a chaotic status too.The migration of the animals, photo taken last year The road rising up to the Daban, full of gravels, very hard, ideal for pushing your bikeThe Yueya Hu gazed at by the round and smooth Toze Gangri. At a glimpse, could you tell which was mountain, which was cloud?Ancient lake bed. The white stains were the alkali, look like ice. About wildlife (part 1)Declaration Personal experience for reference onlyDangerous wild animals and their threats to human beings are a ever-LASTING subject for those backpackers travelling in the wild.In Chang Tang, for example, there are two kinds of deadly animals, one is wolves and the other is brawn bears. As substitutes, wild yaks and crows might be dangerous to you in some circumstances that I will come back to this a little bit later on. As for how to protect yourself against these dangerous animals, I think the primary point is you do not try to hurt them because the emotions of human and animals are same instinctively. [Wolves]Throughout my journey, I met wolves a total of seven times, in which I confronted them five times. As you might have known that wolves have become more and more solitary animals, it is very rare they live in a large group nowadays. Please allow me off the point a little bit and talk about the ecological problems in Chang Tang. The problem is now not the decrease of the number of the chirus but the imbalance of the whole food chain, more specifically, the number of the animals on the higher trophic levels of the food chain has not yet reached its ideal level which results in this kind of imbalance. Particularly, the pikas and the marmots who have lost their predators rapidly expanse which results in the desertification of Chang Tang. As early as the middle of last century, wolves were the dominant predators in the vast wilderness. They became a threat not only to other preys but also nomads pasturing in this land. Therefore, the then government called on people to cull back the population of the wolves in Chang Tang, which resulted in the current situation directly. The last official record about wolves attacking humans was around 1970s, which happened in Bamaoqiongzong. A team of secientists was surrounded by a group of wolves and they had to shoot them using guns. Of course, at present in Chang Tang, wolves are absolutely lonely.In this traverse, the first time I encountered a pair of wolves, one of them staying in front of me pretending to attack me while the other staying behind me. This is the standard attacking strategy of wolves. First, you should not be nervous which can be easily detected by the predators. Second, you should not retreat even an inch because this means you are the prey rather than the predator. Do not make any large movement, of course you could take a picture if you feel safe to do so. You must look into its eyes for a few minutes or even half an hour. When the wolves can not work out who you are and consider you are not posing any danger to them, then they will leave. You should remember that wolves in this land do not lack of food and it is much easy for them to catch a pika than a human. Even if being hungry, they would evaluate how easy to get you done, What you need to do is to show them that you are not interested in them and you are not afraid of them at all, let alone to show your ID card to them. As for the wolves family, really, I have not heard for ages. If you really have an encounter with them and they have no other choice, then it definitely depends on your forture. In fact, for so many year, it has been very rare to happen that wolves kill human. But the rumours are still there, in particular, the road connecting Xinjiang and Tibet.The nearest encounter with a wolf throughout my journey, no conflict at all[Brown Bears]Brown bears are real dangerous animals to human. Every year there are some accidents happened in some regions of Xinjiang on the north side of Kunkun Mountains and steppes in Northern Tibet. More than that the bears could attack your house, smash your windows, and eat your sheep. Therefore, in Northern Tibet some local councils give subsidies to the pastorarists for compensating the losses due to the bears because they are not allow to fight back and kill the bears except their lives are in great danger. Once there was a nomad taught me a method to protect yourself from bears. He told me to pick up a stick to feed the bear and the bear thinks the stick is your hand which tastes disgusting. So the bear would leave. It was so funny but the reality is to find a stick in this vast wilderness is just like you win the lottery.Bears are omonivorous animal who are generally not interested in human flesh. You can find that in most of accidents, the bears did not eat any of the human flesh rather they just smashed them for kind of fun that we could not understand. For the reason why bears kill human, one explanation is the conflict between human and wildlife in this extreme ecological environment. The nomads invade the habitats of the bears, which results in these conflicts. On the other hand, it might be because bears have quite high IQ so that they think it is much easy to kill a sheep in the cote rather than to kill a pika in the wild.I have met bears five times in my traverse, in two cases we were very close to each other. I had even walked with one of them for quite a while, just like we had a date for a walk. The fact is it is not that terrible like you might imagine. The same rules for dealing with wolves apply to bears. Never provoke dangerous animals. A bear can run at a speed of 40km/h, do you think you can compete this in a highland 5,000m above sea level?However, there is a situation where it is really dangerous, that is the encounter. It is not easy to control your instinctive reaction to the external dangers. Last year once I turned around a hill, there was a bear just in front of me. The bear of course was frightened by me with its front legs holding up, waving in the air and roaring. At that time I sat on the ground, ignoring it. The bear then left in a few minutes. Chang Tang is a vast land so that this is not that easy to happen. But if it does happen, really only God can bless you.The nearest encounter with a bear throughout my journey. This bear disappeared in a herd of wild yaks, which I had tried hard to spot, really weird About wildlife (part 2)Declaration personal experience for reference only.[Wild Yaks]I have talked about quite a few, like in the post of Day10. I will no longer talk about it.This was the funniest encounter with a solitary wild yak, who did not warn me. If I sat down, it sat down too. If I moved forward, it stopped. Could not imagine what it was thinking about.[Crows]Crows are dangerous only when you fall unconscious in the wilderness. Of course they will be the first to taste your flesh in that case. Unlike their cousinsliving in urban areas, the crows in Chang Tang have a larger body like eagles. When they fly over your head, you could feel like it is a piece of cloud. They are scavengers but like fresh meat too. It once happened that a baby was killed by crows relentlessly, let alone the lambs got killed by them. Once a nomad asked me for fireworks to scare the crows away. (They are sacred birds not to be killed by human)It is easy to defend yourself against crows, that is to keep fighting, never fall in the wilderness.A short break attracted the crows. Of course, they were miscalculating this time, photo taken last year[Strategies Adopted]At the time when I met the four soldiers in Jieshan Daban, they said there were many dangerous animals in the Northern Tibet and asked me if I had brought a shotgun. I think if they knew that I would enter Chang Tang they would definitely check if I really have a shotgun. The so-called defence facilities I brought with me were the fireworks and pepper spray. I had never used them. The fireworks were ruined and thrown away when I crossed a river and I had never opened the pepper spray. I even had never thought about this when camping in the night. The reason was I did not feel the needs. During the day time whenever I met any animals I had never touched the knife I had brought. I did not have anything to defend myself when I walked out to investigate the route. The Chang Tang is really a vast area so as to be very easy to detect anything strange.By the way, you'd better to avoid mating season's animals because even tamed rabbits could be aggressive in mating season.The thing is even if you have a gun, it is not very much helpful when bears attack you. Therefore, your attitude is most important.I can tell you something. Dogs are more dangerous than these wild animals. I had been chased by Tibetan dogs, pounced on by dogs in mating season, also besieged by a group of dogs. I really feel it is more useful to know how to defend a dog.Declaration again The above experience is from Chang Tang only. Of course, the more you prepared, the better. Day 12 (May 1), 23.8km, Camping 5117mToday was May 1 -- the Labour Day, I had been walking in some lake area marked in the map but clearly dried up. The lake basin was flat and hard so that I even pushed my bike more than 20km. Let it be the special treat for my May Day. After midday it became cloudy with growing winds. Since the Yueya Hu that I passed yesterday, there were no big lakes until Yanghu Co (My route would be between Jianshui Hu and Bairab Co), there was even no light alkaline water to drink so I had to pay extra attention not to miss any possible drinking water supply to fill up my water bag. There were a few very small lakes but all were alkaline puddles which was very shallow, whose depth was no more than the length of a half-finger. These puddles were covered with a hard shell of the mixture of salt and ice which smelled stinking and decaying when getting closer, must be toxic water I supposed. On the shore of this type of small lakes it was muddy soil and very hard to get closer.There was no sign of tundra at all.It was almost half past six when I found some snow corns in a ditch, which was the only drinking water supply of the day. There was a thin layer of melted ice on the surface of the ground near the snow corn, which was very hard to collect and was contaminated by the alkali. The snow corn was the yet melted thick snow, which was shaped like a corn by wind. The snow was quite hard and dry,porous like ice. I crushed a few snow corns, putting them into the water bag.They would be my drinking water tonight. These snow corns were the only one in today's wilderness, I reckoned the reason why they were not melted like others was the soil underneath contained large amount of ice blocks which acted as a freezer.Very strong gale in the night, it was hard to bear the sound of the vibration of the tent. Small single tent was good in the sense that it would not be blown away as long as you stayed inside. But you had to be very careful to set up the tent. I once did not pay much attention when doing so, the tent was blown away by winds, and rolling over like a Giant lantern ... I ran after it, got it back, and was exhausted. In general, it is not possible to fix the tent completely using tent pegs because they were not very much effective like large tents. It was snowing around 23 o'clock, the winds were howling from north,then the falling snow flakes landed on my tent quietly, I finally felt at peace and fell asleep. The flat ancient lake basin, assisting me walking more than 20kmSmall lake en route, toxic waterSnow corns, the only drinking water supply today Day 13 (May 2), 0km, Camping 5117mWaking up in the morning and opening the tent, the heavy snow outside must be sent by the God to force me have a break for the May Day. After lying in for a while, getting up and walking on the snowy ground out I went to have a look around. As first sight there were a herd of chirus. They were plainly to be spotted because they looked like a clear black straight line in the while snow. I returned to get my camera and then followed them to take some pictures. But they were very much alert and kept a quite long distance from me. I felt they were a group of pregnant females, instinctively protecting themselves from any potential harm. I was no longer short of water, the snow gave me a precious supply of drinking water. The problem was that they were very petrol consuming. I tool 8.6 litre of petrol and the oil stove was Duola's MSR. The pot was of 1.5 litre, mainly for boiling water. After several days' experiments, I found that the liquid water needed 16mins and 14-15mins to boil in the morning and evening, respectively. For ice, it would take 35-40mins while for snow it took 45-50mins. Melting snow was a very time and petrol consuming process so if I had a choice between snow and light alkaline water, most of time I would go with the latter. Lying inside the tent, listening to musics,I smoked a cigarette while gazing at the more and more chirus around me. Because it was very cold I had been wearing my shoes all the time. Now I just put my bare feet under the warm sun for some fresh air. I found three cuts in my hands and one in my sole. The cuts were about 4cm in length, looked terrible but it was actually all right really. Half of my toes were injured by to much walking, quite painful. I fetched my medicine bag and found I only got four patches of plasters, a serious mistake. One of the cuts in my hand had never been cured until I was out of this desolate land so as to feel like this finger would drop from my hand at any time. The others quickly recovered in a few days then new cuts appeared elsewhere. This process occurred periodically. I felt that it was somewhat related to the cold, dry weather and the lack of vitamins. The snow rapidly disappeared, which is unique phenomenon in Chang Tang. Because of the low air humidity and the high radiation from the sun, the snow was evaporating very fast, much quicker than the melting speed. Owing to this, the ground was generally still dry after the snow disappeared. In most cases, it would be only 2/5 left in the afternoon around 2 to 3 o'clock and small patches of ground could be seen. It would be completely all right for walking the next day. On the third day there could be some snow left in somewhere the sunlight hard to reach. So generally it could give you three days of water supply after a heavy snow like this. One of the pannier was broken, the most expensive one from deuter series, supposed to be waterproof. I will come back to it at some point later. Everything was covered by snow, no way out Lying in the middle of Chang Tang, listening to Tian Zhen's songs, and smoking Baisha cigarettes, what else can you ask for? The pregnant female chirus in migration, probably heading to Heishi Beihu to give birth(
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傅玉玟本贴所有图文，皆为原创。谢绝任何形式的转载。如有需要，请站短。 尼泊尔是一幅古怪的画。 雨季加都狭窄混乱的街道，泥泞不堪的地面，随处可见的神庙，满街的纱丽店，大大小小患着皮肤病的狗只……所有浓烈的色彩都堆砌在一起，冲撞着你的视觉。偏偏又因为作画人有着梵高那样的天赋，所以这画即使刺得人眼疼，却也另有一种动人心魄的魅力。* 本次出行线路：无锡-拉萨-樟木-加德满都-帕坦-巴克塔普尔-提米-奇特旺-博卡拉-加德满都-拉萨-无锡。6月23号出发，7月18号回到家，总计26天。 本来是准备在回来的时候走滇藏线的，但是电视里天天在播318线新都桥和雅江段因塌方断路的消息，就打消了这个念头。生命只有一次，安全第一。* 本次出行人员：本豆，本豆的无敌金牌搭档花花，小欣子，叔。三女一男。 其实四人组合是很好的，吃饭包车都经济实惠。唯一不好的是尼泊尔的旅馆撑死了只有三人间，出于安全考虑，我们一般都住在一起，每次叔独占一床，我们仨女的挤两张床，小欣子就只能睡在中间，叔叫她“填缝专家”，因此小欣子很恨叔，没事就跟他吵个小架。 关于叔，及叔的二三事叔其实了不起算个哥，但是因为队伍里有了小欣子这个九零后，哥就悲催地混成了叔。＊加都，凤凰。叔其实很绅士，不管做什么都让着仨娘们。有次我从外面进来，花花和小欣子一个洗澡一个唱歌，房间里蒸汽弥漫，我奇怪地问：“叔呢？”小欣子说：“在楼下大堂里呆坐着。”我上楼的时候是路过大堂的，但是我没有注意到叔。叔，其实我不是无视你，我是450度近视……之后，如果叔不在，我通常是这样问小欣子的：“你苦逼叔呢？”＊关于叔的脸小欣子有个同学，跟她男朋友打电话的时候，动不动就说：“小心我呼肿你的脸！”小欣子学给我们听，集体笑倒，以后，大家只要一不高兴，就扬言要呼肿对方的脸。某天，我无意中买到了一件很好看的衣服。兴冲冲地对叔说：“明天我要穿新衣服，你帮我多拍几张照片，要是拍不好，我就呼肿你的脸！”花在旁边幽幽地接一句：“那叔的脸一定是肿的。”＊某天，东措叔满脸郁闷地坐在床上，说，刚才给老婆的QQ发了个表情，老婆居然回他说“你好。”隔壁有个小哥要去墨脱。叔听了蠢蠢欲动，长吁短叹。我说：叔，还是早点回家吧，否则下次你老婆要 “请问你是哪位”了。＊总结：叔其实是个准好男人，大方豪气，从不和女同胞斤斤计较，热爱家庭，热爱宠物，虽然有时候细腻了点，比如喜欢看云卷云舒，喜欢听雨，喜欢拍小景，经常蹲在草丛和烂泥里（看贴童鞋敬请期待叔在以上俩场景里的照片）搞创作，但总的来说，叔是个堂堂正正的好男人。＊下面附上一张叔在库玛丽女神庙专心搞创作的照片。 **上一张全家福。依次为花猪，小欣子，豆猪，叔。 淡扯完，从头说起。 我记得去年上海-拉萨的火车是两天发一趟的，叔说，每天都发。于是我不确定了，让叔去打听下。打听下来的结果，是每天发。于是提前十天去买票。到了代售点，人说，京沪高铁马上要开通，上海铁路局所属范围内，7月1号之前的火车票一律只能提前5天发售。于是回家。到了限定的日子，起个大早去，居然一张卧铺都没有，想着先上车，拼着坐到西安，总能补到的吧，就先买了3张硬座。 结果等到那天，一上车我就问有没有卧铺补，答复是没有，到哪都补不到。因为这趟车的卧铺出售权，是交给站台的，列车没有资格出售……除非过了格尔木，可是等到了格尔木，还补个毛啊。貌似有不少同学以为俺是为了省钱才买的硬座，8是滴，47小时呢，楼主8是铁打滴，如果有卧铺，是不会自虐滴——特此说明。不要再同情和佩服俺了。俺坐到下车，腰都坐断了，铁老大、黄牛和旅行社以及所有炒火车票的人，祖宗八代都给俺问候到了。哦，对了，叔为了这三张鸟火车票，一共跑了三次，劳苦功高。出发前的准备有点琐碎。护照拍成照片存在邮箱里，以防出国后万一丢失或被偷；药物准备了易蒙停、咽立消、阿莫西林、万金油等，淘宝高原安集体涨价了，于是在掌柜的推荐下买了高原宁，结果是毛用没有，一路照样反得头昏眼花； 淘宝还买了《走遍全球尼泊尔》、《背包旅游英语》两本书，以及2个月前开始背英语，天天看美剧（虽然等出国后才发现，俺的英语水平等于文盲）；据说那边太阳很厉害，忍着心疼买了金瓶安耐晒（虽然后来发现这玩意不适合俺，用了脸上的皮掉了一层又一层，摸上去跟砂皮似的）；叔提前一个月就天天跟俺念叨，今天败了啥，明天又败了啥。俺帮他粗算了一下，人还没出去，2000大洋没了……花花比我们提前一天到拉萨，说好在东措帮我们定房。 火车上的47个小时生不如死，上去后先问有没有卧铺补，答复是没有，到哪都补不到。因为这趟车的卧铺出售权，是交给站台的，列车没有资格出售……除非过了格尔木，可是等到了格尔木，还补个毛啊。坐到后来，终于麻木。到拉萨后洗澡的时候才发现，屁股是麻的。 车上听歌，看小电影，小欣子和叔玩扑克，输的人贴纸条，小欣子的脸贴得跟个“公”字似的，她愤愤地说叔是千王…… 我则按照惯例，在过了格尔木之后开始高反，吐了两次，昏沉沉闭着眼装死。 无锡火车站。还好，人不是很多。到西安的时候，至少晚点了一个小时。车到兰州，我特地提着相机下去拍兰州烧饼。没有。只有兰州炸鸡。格尔木。盼望着，盼望着，岗秀到了，拉萨的脚步近了……东措的走廊。俺居然还是住在２０２，还是去年那张床……缘分啊！到了拉萨，我高反得象头死猪。很快我发现，不是我一个人反，连皮实得跟个铁蛋似的花花，这次也嚷不舒服，叔的高反也紧跟着来了，嘴唇紫得吓人，据他说，心跳达到了120。一直睡到下午，才提起精神，去大昭寺转了一圈。在拉萨的几天，就是胡乱混日子。和花花一起来的还有她朋友小天。小天虽然是第一次跟着花出远门，但天生是个麻大胆，都不用花领着，自己出去乱转。每天早上出门，不到晚上11点基本是不见人的。花开始还担心，后来就推测，丫一定是有人陪着玩，否则不可能在花主动要求陪她的情况下，一个人急急忙忙地出门去……于是，我管花叫“花尔摩斯”。花龙颜大悦，欣然接受了这一称呼。 *仓央嘉措的玛吉阿米。据说是装13的好地方，不过俺老人家不感兴趣，一次也没上去过。也就是在每次路过的时候，随便拍一张。大昭寺前磕长头的人们。今年的天气很诡异，拉萨的云层很厚，经常下雨。照片拍出来总是灰蒙蒙的，唯一的好处是不象往年那么干燥得让人难受。*大昭寺的金顶。广场。远一点，再来一张。在大街小巷里乱窜。这张照片，是叔帮俺拍的。走累了，闯进一家茶馆。酥油茶6元一壶。看到壶的大小后，我们一致认为，伙计收的是游客价。下午的小昭寺。进去转个圈。不要门票，当然，大殿门关着，你啥也看见。大殿。在大殿和外墙之间，还有一条夹道，供转经的人们围着殿堂转。小昭寺的这夹道算很宽的，还能放下一排转经筒。我后来又逛过几个小寺庙，那些夹道，都是又窄又暗的。早上的时候转经的人摩肩接踵，现在，只有三三两两的几个。我们也跟着转了一圈。 东措对面的木如寺。这个寺庙，经常被游客忽略，其实，那里面，还有一个印经院呢。 有个不大的殿堂，很安静。除了早上，这里几乎没有人来。从尼泊尔回国后，我在一天清晨重新造访了这里。很多信徒。这是木如寺旁边的下密院。也是除了早上，白天没什么人。小昭寺紧隔壁的次巴拉康寺，据说是拉萨人气最旺的小寺庙。真不是假的。清晨的时候，全是熙熙攘攘的人流，在昏暗的夹道里一圈一圈地转着，寺外桑烟缭绕，周围的小摊子，全是卖的和这个寺庙有关的东西。我买了一束花，也进去转了一圈。卖花的小摊。大的花束3元，小的2元。烟雾。次巴拉康寺大殿门上的彩色小鹿。([]
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蔡亚妤今年2.29—3.25，完成了向往已久的尼泊尔EBC徒步和景区旅游，我们的路线是：成都—加都—卢卡拉—EBC(三人原路返回，一人穿越CHO LA PAAS从GOKYO返回)—卢卡拉—加都—博卡拉—蓝毗尼—奇特旺—加都—成都。产生徒步尼泊尔EBC的愿望，最早是因为两年前在我参加活动的杭州起点登山队的论坛上看到“小妖精FAY”的一个帖子《天堂的约会-尼泊尔14日无背夫无向导徒步》（本论坛也有此帖），当时立马“中毒”， 心想“杭州小妖精”去得，难道“杭州老妖怪”就去不得？ 年轻人能够重装无向导，我老头轻装用背夫总可以吧？话是这么说，形成决定还需多方了解情况，掂斤估两。我自己的情况是：65岁，数年前被医生宣布为高血压病人，需每天服药降压； 从03年起间或参加过不少杭州周围野山的登山活动，体能在团队中属中下等； 2009年5月去川藏，在定日珠峰大本营徒步5公里，2010年春节从德钦雨崩徒步到梅里雪山大本营， 这两次高原行走都感觉高反轻微；去年五一，作为EBC徒步的热身去爬了浙西清凉峰（海拔1787.4米， 8.5小时上下），下山时陡坡砾石路很难走，把四个脚趾盖都顶黑了，筋疲力尽，但还是跟上队伍走完了全程（能不跟上吗？）。浏览了不少有关EBC徒步的网帖，反复权衡，最终的结论是：走EBC不需要超强的体力，但需要有一点意志和耐力， 需要有高原行走适应高反的经历，因此我基本上是能够胜任的， 尽管从古狗卫星图上看下去，我们将要走的路是如此严酷狰狞。根据旅行必须“有钱有闲”的条件， 我把出发日期定在2012年初，在杭州19楼，8264，磨房，台湾背包客栈上都发了招伴帖，帖子发出后，前前后后来联系的有二十多人，包括香港，日本， 台湾的驴友， 但因为我的日程较长，上班族假期不够或不对应，最后成行的只有四人，其实， 这样的徒步旅行结伴最好也就是4-6人，人多了容易意见分歧各行其是。在搜集尼泊尔旅行资料做攻略的过程中，除了上面提到“杭州小妖精”的帖子，对我帮助最大的就是简如邠女士的书《尼泊尔玩全秘笈》，尽管这本书的大陆版本完全以“中国”的面目出现，没有一字提到台湾， 但一看行文风格便知这本书是台湾作者写的。在此真心对这两位女菩萨致谢。 出发前一天晒装备， 说明如下：60升背包自重2.2公斤,总重11.5公斤，EBC路上拿出自己背装相机水壶的小背包，托付给背夫的重量是8.5公斤。考虑到走EBC本人体力有限， 没有带笨重的单反，只带了两个傻瓜机，打印机用来现场打印小照片讨尼泊尔小盆友的喜欢。事后最满意的装备：骆驼全防水登山鞋（740元），天石海子羽绒睡袋（淘宝886元，舒适温零下4°C--零下11°C,充绒800克，自重1.4公斤），宜家0.5升保暖瓶（29元，看瓶贴属日本退货，却是我用过的水瓶中保温效果最好的，让我能在雪山上喝到热水）。为了保持对外联络并免去网本的重量，专门买了一个爱疯4替换原来300元的双卡山寨手机.因为后来三人放弃了计划中的CHO LA PASS, 所以雪套冰爪都没用上。D0 (2月29日） 上海--成都又一次来到这个驴友中转城市，免不了再去逛逛锦里。D1 (3月1日）成都--加德满都（Kathmandu)950从成都起飞， 1130左右飞越喜马拉雅山脉。80年代某个夏天曾首次飞越喜马拉雅， 那时只看到一片赭色的高原， 如同火星表面， 没有任何生命迹象，也十分震撼， 现在则疑惑当时为什么没有看到积雪呢？飞临加都河谷上空加都国际机场， 尼泊尔欢迎你网上招伴集结的四个人（来自杭州， 嘉兴， 漳州）在加都机场外， 一副神采飞扬的样子， EBC的冰天雪地正等着狠狠地折磨这四个小子。到达塔梅尔区东口。在所住旅馆对门的旅行代理处买了明天去LUKLA的小飞机票（往返205美元），换了足够的卢比。大街上的尼共竞选广告。外国游客受到尼泊尔武警的严密保护：） 自己去尼泊尔旅游局办理进山证（TIMS)， 每份1600卢比。如果委托旅游代理办， 每份要2000卢比，但如果你和代理有其他生意可做， 如委托其代办旅馆，机票，团队游，雇佣向导背夫等等， 代理也可能向你提供只要1000卢比或10美元的进山证，其中有何奥妙他们自己知道。街上的骑警， 把照片在电视机上放大看才看出骑警是位女性， 正用冷峻的眼神瞟我这位“老外”的镜头。人行天桥上的盲人乞丐。穿过加都最热闹的传统集市阿森街（ASON TOL)。 杜邦广场纳拉扬神庙距离这个“苦行僧”的背影十几米远按下了快门，不料他却听到了“咔嚓”声立马转过身朝我走来，“哈哈， 可逮着你了，100卢比！”--看他的表情我猜想他心里是这样想的，他走近向我讨钱，我假装听不懂他的话一脸茫然双手乱挥， 最后不了了之。湿婆和帕尔瓦蒂在他们的神庙上方俯视着芸芸众生。尼泊尔人90%信印度教，湿婆（SHIVA）是三大神祗之一，主管生殖与毁灭， 虽是外形是女的，却是个男儿身（像佛教的观音菩萨？），以男性生殖器（LINGGAM)为象征； 帕尔瓦蒂是湿婆的配偶，是喜马拉雅雪山神女，代表幸福美满的婚姻，以女性生殖器（YONI)为象征。D2 （3月2日） KATHMANDU--LUKLA (海拔2840)--PHAKDING(2610)--MONJO(2840)加都国内机场大厅买的是YETI的机票，坐的是TARA的飞机， 驾驶员是典型尼泊尔美男。登机完毕， 乘客中有不少当地女藏民， 是去转山拜佛的。 第一次坐这样的小飞机，觉得命都悬在窗外这个黑铁皮包的螺旋桨上。降落了我们的飞机 卢卡拉山地机场，仅有400米斜坡跑道， 据称居世界上最危险的十个机场之首。在机场出口和出发前在网上约好的两名向导背夫会面，决定今天和随后的行程安排。尼泊尔时间早上10：00启程，从机场边的小路上山。刚才得到消息, 本月14号尼泊尔AGNI公司的一架小飞机从博克拉（POKHARA)飞往江森（JOMSOM, ABC徒步的一个起点）途中因技术故障失事撞山， 机上至少17人遇难。无语。 愿逝者安息， 一路走好。难免会想， 同在2012年， 为什么是ABC, 不是EBC?为什么是五月的他们， 不是三月的我们？想起这次旅行前，老同事（曾在空军中维修飞机）劝我不要去坐小飞机。户外运动的风险当然比坐在家中大，但是，生命的本质，就寓在运动之中啊。 夏尔巴人的孩子， 也许从小就学习这种用头顶承重的负荷方式了。1400到PHAKDING午餐， 1710到MONJO投宿。我们的向导（左）和背夫（右），向导能英语会话， 书写也很漂亮，背夫是他徒弟，看上去18岁都不到吧。 D3 MONJO(2840)—NAMCHE (3440)萨加马塔国家公园门口。 在这里查验进山证和购买门票（每人1000卢比）。珠穆朗玛峰（藏语， 圣女峰）在尼泊尔语中为萨加马塔峰（SAGARMATHA）,西方人则习惯称埃佛勒斯特峰（MOUNT. EVEREST）， 是为了纪念英国统治印度和尼泊尔时，负责测量喜马拉雅山脉的印度测量局局长George Everest。办公室内记载每年每月进山人数的表牌，2012年3月还是空白。路遇一位在事故中失去一条胳膊的夏尔巴向导，他仍在继续他的职业。 据说今天的路陡升600米比较费劲， 结果却没有感觉， 上午8：00出发， 中午1230即到目的地NAMCHE。下午到市场上去购物，买了气罐， 矿泉水，夏尔巴帽等等。投宿HOTEL TIBET.旅馆店堂里纪念1953年新西兰人希拉里和他的夏尔巴向导诺尔盖首次登上珠峰的的招贴。小时候（1956年）我在上海黄陂路南京路口（现上海美术馆）看过一个《印度摄影展览会》，里面有首次登上珠峰的诺尔盖的照片，所以一直以为首次登上珠峰的是个印度人。 D4NAMCHE(3440)--TENGBOCHE(3860)上午10：00从NAMCHE 出发据向导说这座塔是纪念首次登上珠峰的夏尔巴人诺尔盖的。下午1720在一片阴霾中到达TENGBOCHE的客栈 D5TENGBOCHE(3860)--DINGBOCHE(4410)早上起来挂在室内的毛巾成了冰棍，说明室温在零度左右，自己的睡袋加客栈的一条毯子，基本可以睡得比较暖和。早餐。 NAMCHE以上客栈的房价是100卢比/人，早中晚餐的价格基本上是300-450卢比一餐，热水300卢比/一热水瓶，牦牛奶400卢比/一热水瓶，充电300卢比/一次。 牦牛所背货物的外包装是“浙江温岭工业园区”的饲料袋。今天是上午820出发， 下午1550到DINGBOCHED6DINGBOCHE （4410）今天在DINGBOCHE停留一天，适应海拔。客栈店堂里台湾驴友的帖子。晒鞋，烧水泡方便面。夕阳下的 AMA DABLAM 峰（海拔6858米）D7DINGBOCHE (4410)--LOBUCHE（4940）早餐后在客栈店堂里和房东合影，山上所有的店堂都是同一格局，屋中央通常有个火炉，四周墙边连上约70公分宽50公分高的坐台，上铺毛毡， 再放一圈餐桌，白天可当餐厅，晚间遇旺季客人爆满时可让客人睡在坐台上。柜台上贴了告示提醒健行者在此购买巧克力瓶装水等物资， 再上去越高越贵。 能和心爱的人一起神游喜马拉雅山真是人生莫大的快乐啊， 后面是KANGTEGA峰（6778米） 早上7：50出发，1020到TUKLA午餐，各国登山队健行者都习惯事先做好不干胶LOGO一路留名，俺们下次也要学这一招。这次只能用随身带的红色唛头笔留名（见上方）。爬坡上了这个垭口是一片开阔地，这里有许多在山难中殒命的夏尔巴人和各国登山者的灵塔。 夏尔巴人用石块垒的灵塔。这个德州达拉斯的小伙子25岁就没了， 不知是在雪山冲顶中遇难还是在高反中一睡不起了。亲属的铭文是“愿他的灵魂在此永生，我们爱你， 我们想你”。 在温暖的阳光下看着，读着，泪水忽然涌上了眼眶。 缺氧，大脑有点迷糊，在平坦的开阔地，EBC的温和阳光令人感到舒服，空气中好像有一种甜蜜的意味，体力消耗似到极限，几乎想就地躺下不再起来， 怎么样？像很多高反患者那样，睡下去就不起来了如何？把所有的烦恼一下全部扔在身后，这样的离开世界也未尝不好啊。亲历过许多长辈和同辈的去世，病人躺在医院病床上，围着一大堆心思各异的亲友，身上插满管子，连着生命监护仪，用各种药物维持血压， 心率，血氧饱和度等各项指，延长濒死者的生命，最后再尝试用大电极刺激心脏复苏 - - 难道这样的死就好么？人的血液里，或多或少流动着早先荒野上群居动物的基因，那些喜欢亲近大自然的登山者探险家的生死观，肯定会和一般人有差别啊。 我们还在向LOBUCHE靠拢， 这位法国大哥已经从EBC下来了，这是我见到的最嬉皮士的“驴友”，脚蹬硬底大皮鞋， 身穿一件到处是破洞的皮大衣，用一根带子背着一个SACK (单口帆布袋， 或曰小偷越货用的大袋子），没有帽子围巾， 没有登山杖， 没有开麦拉，可令所有讲究名牌的“装备控”驴友目瞪口呆 - - - - 前方左面是PUMO RI (7165米）， 右面是LINGTREN (6749米）。下午1510到LOBUCHE, 今天走的路在地图上量得的直线距离是9公里，但实际上上下下的距离是多少， 就不清楚了。空中不时响起救援直升机的声音，把严重的高反病人送往加德满都救治，一次救助飞行需5000-6000美元。出发前买过人民币165元的美亚保险，一旦出险只要报保单号就可以得到先行救助，但这样的飞行享受还是不要为好。([]
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